Lately, mainly 2007 and onwards, a resurgence of the same style of pants has been slowly brewing, gaining more fans by the season and going from the extreme of nouveau fashion to the runways of Paris and NYC and now is about to enter mainstream consumer markets through H&M's 2010 Spring/Summer collection.
Before going into peering at the future I'd like to peek at the past and examine the origins of this style of pants, which is more of a category of pants rather than one and single type of pant. Through the ages it has bore many names, some being as intriguing and mysterious-sounding as Sarouel, Jodhpur, Zouave, Lungi and Dhoti and as mundane as super-wide leg, sailor, pajama pants and as one of my favourite Fasionistos, TheFashionGent, dubbed them, "sagging crotches".
1. The Sarouel
The origin of the name of this specific sub-type of pants comes from the French noun Sarouel, which refers to a large type of pant fabric that is worn around the Sahara region:
While this is what I would imagine the Prince of Persia(and by this I mean of course Jake Gyllenhaal) wearing, I can say that a bit of googling has made this type of pant appealing and I am very likely going to buy one or more pairs in the near future. Here's a few of my favourite choices:
1. The Sarouel
The origin of the name of this specific sub-type of pants comes from the French noun Sarouel, which refers to a large type of pant fabric that is worn around the Sahara region:
sarouel (n.m.)
1.large pantalon de toile porté dans le Sahara.
While this is what I would imagine the Prince of Persia(and by this I mean of course Jake Gyllenhaal) wearing, I can say that a bit of googling has made this type of pant appealing and I am very likely going to buy one or more pairs in the near future. Here's a few of my favourite choices:
- Wool Sarouel Pants by DeepStyle ( $82 )
This great style has even penetrated the Jeans Market and as one website sartorially observes, even though some are indeed seeing this new pant as a fad that will pass, I believe it is here to stay. Think of what a lot of fashion critics had said about men's skinny jeans, that they would not stick with today's man, while lo and behold skinny jeans are bigger than ever. Viva la revolucion stilistica!
- Vintage Sarouel Pants by EPISODE
There's nothing better than seeing an actual person wear an item and observing how this item integrates with who the person is. Wilfried, photographed on EasyFashion is the perfect example of a stylish guy who is not afraid of being a road-opener and in this picture is wearing a pair of vintage Sarouel Pants.
2. The Jodhpur
The Jodhpur is the most conservative of all drop-crotch pants and has been mainly designed to facilitate horse-back riding and hunting. Originally Jodhpurs were worn in the Indian city of Jodhpur and were tight-fitting only from the knee to the ankle, flaring above the knee. Modern fabrics have allowed Jodhpurs, which have traditionally been only white or cream to be available in most colours while stretch-fabrics have added more support and flexibility. The Jodhpur on the right is made out of leather and comes from designer Marie Streichenberger, designed for Holland&Holland.
3. The Dhoti
The Dhoti is the traditional male garment in the Indian subcontinent and what comes to transpire as dhoti pants in the western world are pants in a drop-crotch style that incorporate influences from traditional dhoti pants.
The Dhoti is the traditional male garment in the Indian subcontinent and what comes to transpire as dhoti pants in the western world are pants in a drop-crotch style that incorporate influences from traditional dhoti pants.
4. The Zouave
The Zouave gets its name from a certain group from within the French army, the Zouaves, a corps first rasised in Algeria in 1831 consisting entirely of two battalions of Berbers.
Cloak, Spring/Summer '07
5. The Harem
Last but not least, the Harem pants originate obviously from the Harems of the olden Muslim Empires and are basically baggy/drop-crotch pants, tapered at the ankle and that have side-flaps on the hip that button at the waist area.
Here are some Harem pants in action on the runways of the world; John Galliano on the left, combining two of the 2010 Spring/Summer trends, the Harem pant and the Gladiator Sandals and Bottega Veneta on the right also combining two of the trends, the colour red and the Harem.
Enjoy some Hammer time....uh, I meant Harem time !
Hi Robert,
ReplyDeleteYour French noun "sarouel" comes from the Arabic noun "sirwal" or سِرْوَال . I know this via Morocco, and I’d recommend that anyone looking for men’s harem pants seek Moroccan ones, as being comfortable, practical, elegant, cheap, and excellent quality. Algerian are similar, and so probably are other North African.
I have bought such trousers from a shop in Rue Caplat in Paris (five minutes' walk from Gare du Nord), and from “Fez” at 71 Golborne Road in London (ten minutes' walk from Westbourne Park tube). They’re comfortable because they're light and airy and don’t press on bits men would rather not have pressed on. They’re practical because they have lovely deep pockets that money and keys don’t fall out of, and also because they don't wrinkle like normal trousers, and therefore stay smart. They’re elegant because of the long flowing lines. They’re cheap (at least for me in the UK) because of the difference in money values. And they are often made of extremely good-quality fabric. This may be dense cotton, sometimes with a looser weave around the bits that like being kept cool. I have one pair that looks like a cotton-silk mixture. And, some pairs are beautifully tailored, with many pleats carefully placed to add volume and shape. They make the big commercial brands look amateurish and shapeless.
The Moroccan name for the style is “qandrissi” or “kandrissi”, by the way. I couldn't find many pictures on the Web, but there’s a pair at “Al Moultazimoun”, http://www.almoultazimoun.com/213-sarouel-large.html which are fairly typical, though they don’t look ironed. A smarter picture is of the homemade pair shown by “La Bobine” at “Les deux sarouels de Meelili”, http://labobine.over-blog.com/article-13351231.html . (There’s a tutorial on how to make those at http://labobine.canalblog.com/archives/2006/07/21/2325412.html .) I don't think the author is Moroccan, but her photo is similar to some Moroccan styles, so it's a good example. Indeed, I've had a similar pair made for me by a tailor in Tangier.
Jocelyn Paine
Thanks, Robert! Something else you'll like: the Saaibestrijding blog by a Maastricht man named Paul Tieman. He
ReplyDeleteis making "steps toward the re-introduction of colourful and creative men's clothing, after two centuries dominated by black, grey, boring mass clothing".
"Saaibestrijding" is his made-up Dutch word for "struggle against boredom". His blog (in English) shows sarouels that he has bought or made, and many other unusual clothes besides.
They look fucking ridiculous.
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